Gitanos were popular in the ’80s and early ’90s as a second-tier discount denim brand; if you couldn’t afford Calvin Klein or Guess but wanted the same look, you wore Gitano. In 1954 they began to make other sportswear in addition to jeans. 1979 – In its 90th year, Lee realizes its ambition to outfit the whole family with the formation of its Youthwear division, announcing the achievement with the slogan, “Lee Fits America.”. STEPS. 1986 – Lee enters its centennial with 17 sewing plants, five laundries, nearly 10,000 employees and a daily production capacity of 200,000 jeans. All customers get FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. Lee moves onto the international market and shows appreciation for its domestic workers with an innovative pension plan. 1919-21 – Lee roars into the 20s with a Kansas City, Mo., replacement for the smaller plant in Kansas City, Kan., a new plant and office in Minneapolis, an upgraded plant in Trenton, N.J., and warehouses in San Francisco and Los Angeles. 1949 – Lee purchases Kansas manufacturer Bruce Co., sells the former Salina grocery warehouse. 1971 – Former executive vice president D.F. Rise: High (at or above the belly button). 1910s – The H.D. Especially with vintage Levi’s denim jackets you can potentially make a big score, but there are … Here’s what to look for, what to expect when you pull them on, and most importantly, where to find them. 1903 – A major fire consumes the $125,000 Salina plant and its $450,000 contents. 1987 – Denim now accounts for nearly 84 percent of jeans sales. Lee jeans usually come with several labels that show the size of the jeans, the material it is made out of, such as 100% Cotton, or other blends, and the country of manufacturing. 1964 – Not since the onset of the zipper has such an innovation gripped the consumer: Lee presses on with a line of “no-iron” permanent press slacks, sold under the “Lee-Prest” banner. Lee Jeans History – from the VCA board courtesy of e*happy. 1969 – Lee’s shareholders agree to an acquisition by Wyomissing, Penn.-based VF Corp., producer of Vanity Fair intimate apparel. Hoopes jumps at the chance to serve as president of Lee, which he does until his promotion to president of VF Corp. 1973 – Lee strengthens its commitment to the women’s market with the launch of a fitting tribute to women under the Ms. Lee label. Note: Look for dark or bright blue washes with cool whisker fades on the thighs. This article provides an overall guide to the eight details you should be looking out for when putting a production date to vintage Levi’s 501 jeans… Lee Mercantile Co., a wholesale grocery capitalized with $100,000 from Lee’s investment group and reportedly jumpstarted with $25,000 of Salina’s own money. Reynolds. 1957 – Boys’ wear, and boys everywhere, receive a lift with the introduction of Lee’s “Double Knees,” patching relations between worn out moms and their “holy tearers.”. According to Karyn Hillman, chief product officer of Levi’s, "the fit of the 501 has evolved over the decades in keeping with style of the time — legs get narrower or wider and rises fluctuate slightly depending upon the year.". These high-rise vintage jeans with a slim cut, straight or slightly flared legs are likely to throw you a curve, creating curves you have been dreaming of so long. Lee Riders for Long-Legged Women. The H.D. 1889 – H.D. 1986 – Lee’s answer to a more casual lifestyle appears in a line featuring a frosted finish and relaxed fit. The jackets were priced at $225 ea. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift shop; buy them new at Army/Navy stores. Lee Co. is woven into America’s western expansion and the world events of the 20th Century. 1956 – Leonard W. Staples, nephew of the company’s second chief executive, replaces Benjamin E. Kinney when Kinney replaces chairman C.A. Edited to add: Forgot to say that except for one, these jackets and the jeans … Some of the most frequently asked questions we get are related to determining the authenticity of vintage jeans, especially vintage Levi’s 501 jeans. 1917 – Brigadier General Leonard Wood orders doughboys to be outfitted in Union-Alls, the fatigue the U.S. military couldn’t wear out during World War I. Lee also becomes the first national advertiser in the apparel industry. 3. This trend continued, with basics such as chinos being added to Lee… The history of the H.D. A nice alternative to Wranglers, Lee jeans have a similar fit without feeling so Western. Even if you don’t often wield a hammer, carpenter jeans are nice to have in the rotation. Other fitting improvements include the U-shaped saddle crotch and tailored sizing, in which rise and seat proportions are based on waist and inseam measurements. Racked is no longer publishing. 1970s – Advances in technology and the fundamentals of style induce advances that streamline and speed up production without sacrificing quality. 1959 – Dressy white jeans and jackets arrive in the form of the Lee Westerner. 1927 – Textile technology takes a fashionable turn with the launching of color-fast herringbone twills. Lee … Wrangler, like Lee initially used the arcuate stitch on … Early success in the oil business and a doctor’s admonition to go west, lead the tubercular Lee to settle in Salina, Kan., in 1889. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Tictail, Denim Refinery, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. Once again, it’s all about the butt here, with a super high waist, slim fit through the thigh, and just enough stretch. 1950 – The expanding jeans market leads Lee to fold the food division, selling it to Consolidated Grocers (later Consolidated Foods) for $3 million. The gold standard of vintage Levi’s, 501s look great on every body type. Lee … 1909 – A newspaper describes Lee as “head of the largest mercantile business in Kansas City and the biggest citizen of Salina, whose name is in every mouth and whose goods are on every shelf.” Lee evidently wears the pants in the Salina business community; he soon will be making them, too. 1981 – Automated marking and cutting equipment decrease waste and increase savings. 1912 – Losing his shirt and pant sales due to unreliable workwear suppliers from the East, Lee opens his first apparel plant in Salina to produce overalls, jackets and dungarees. Wide-leg cut short and worn with ankle boots, long and skinny, slouchy boyfriend, flares... there isn’t a way to go wrong. See our ethics policy here. 1950s – The Lee clothing concerns expand as the food division is sold. Breaking down the best brands, their fits, and where to shop them. This vintage pair of Lee Jeans is one of the many treasures from my personal denim archive. Look for Care Tags: Care tags began being added to Levi’s garments in the 1970s. Lee Mercantile Co. becomes the major food distributor between Kansas City and Denver. Established in 1889 as a wholesale mercantile of groceries & goods to the West, The H.D. 2. 1920s – The Lee Co. breaks new ground with additional factories, innovative advertising and the first promotional appearance of the popular Buddy Lee doll. 1928 – Leonard C. Staples, the husband of Lee’s niece, assumes the position of president until his death. To help you make sense of it all, we pulled together a guide to the brands and styles most commonly found at vintage and thrift stores. It was at this time also that the back martingale was removed from the jeans. 1974 – A 1974 Gentlemen’s Quarterly contains an ad for Lee’s double-knit leisure suit, made of Dupont’s 100 percent Dacron¨ polyester. Lee taps the final frontier, producing infant and toddler apparel. Note: Later versions often had some kind of pizzaz, like different colored stitching on the pockets, pink stripes, acid wash, or intense pleating. Wrangler is an American manufacturer of jeans and other clothing items, particularly workwear.The brand is owned by Kontoor Brands Inc., which also owns Lee.Its headquarters is in downtown Greensboro, … 1943 – Recognizing the company’s increasing apparel production, “Mercantile” is cut from the company’s moniker, creating The H.D. Lee initiates a strong succession of company presidents and management that carry Lee successfully through the remaining decades of the 20th Century. Racked has affiliate partnerships, which do not influence editorial content, though we may earn commissions for products purchased via affiliate links. 1926 – Three words: Jeans with zippers. After WWII, Lee began to market their jeans not just as work clothes, but as fashion items. 1985 – Malcolm Winne serves as president until becoming chairman in 1986. In 1949, Lee launched the Lady Lee Rider line, a womens wear counterpart to the already existing Rider Line. It was Reynolds who came up with the idea for Buddy Lee, past and present icon of Lee promotions and advertising. Fit: Straight leg, relaxed fit. The mercantile’s success spawns the Salina-based H.D. According to Sung, "they give my hips a tighter hug, making my boyish shape a little more curvy." Fit: Straight leg, classic fit (aka mom jeans). Lee Jeans History – from the VCA board courtesy of e*happy The history of the H.D. Your guide to vintage Lee jeans. Note: These are great for an hourglass shape, or anyone looking for statement denim — acid wash is common, as are unexpected embellishments at the ankle like zippers, buttons, snaps, and/or denim bows. Lee is ministering to the whims of a fickle public, and should not be blamed for this trend. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Denim Refinery, Urban Outfitters, curated vintage shops. Note: Hillman reccomends looking for pairs from the 1970s, which have a slimmer thigh for more of a rocker vibe. "I still look at the Brooke Shields ads from the early ’80s as my style inspiration every fall," says Francis. The Lee Riders collection featured the now-iconic Lee cowboy jeans as well as a new jacket: the 101J. Nice reproduction jeans, like Levi’s Vintage Collection and Lee Retros, feel quality. 1952 – Named after its Chetopa, Kan., facility, Lee develops Chetopa Twill, a tough, sharp-looking new workwear fabric that rubs workers the right way. 1924 – A 13-ounce denim cowboy pant is introduced in 1924. This brand was Wrangler. The workwear classic is so comfortable you almost feel like you’re getting away with something by wearing them in public. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button) with a nipped-in waist. Take a trip down Lee’s memory lane and witness over 100 years of jeans history. Examine the Inseams: … 1964 – Lee opens its first overseas factory in Belgium. Lee Jeans is a major international retailer and manufacturer of denim wear and casual wear. 1982 – Lee enters the stone age with its stone-washed denim jeans. 1950s – Lee acquires more companies and opens more new plants. Rise: High-waisted (at the belly button) or low-slung (at or below the hips), depending on how much you do or don’t size up. Different brands are also geared toward different bodies. 1954 – Lee enters the fast-growing leisure sportswear market with Leesures. FIND THE CODE Now look for either a 5-digit STYLE code … FIND THE LABEL Take a look at the label inside your item.It’s usually around the waistband of your bottoms or along the side seam of your tops. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. Fit: Look for pairs from the early ’80s, which have a slight flare that make them the ideal disco jean. If you choose to size up instead, they're the perfect comfy boyfriend jean — just roll the cuff or crop the bottom. 1954 – Lee demonstrates its concern for the welfare of its workers with a pension plan, believed to be the first company-funded program covering all employees. Light washes, cuffed denim styles, and black jeans were the reigning jeans trends among men, and popular brands included Levi’s, Lee Cooper, and Wrangler jeans. In modern Levi’s, the style number is often included on the care tag inside the jeans. A fake … And who could forget Kate Moss with Marky Mark? Note: Look for ’90s pairs in baby blue washes; if you can find late ’70s Calvins (à la Brooke Shields), snag them. One of its most popular pieces of clothing, the Lee … Meanwhile, Levi’s and Calvin Klein are made to accommodate curves, and don’t forget that many of the coolest pairs will come from the men’s section. According to Janet Sung from Denim Refinery, "Wrangler and Lee have less discrepancy between the waist and hip size, so they’re better brands for ladies with less hip." Lee leads the H.D. Fit: Slim through the hip and thigh with a super straight or slightly flared leg; a great option for narrow hips. The Union-All idea belongs either to Lee or his chauffeur, depending on whom you ask. Lee Mercantile company from its 1911 beginnings, and until his fatal heart attack March 15, 1928, in San Antonio, Texas, was the company’s clothing arm, legs and torso. In the 1950’s, Lee introduced the Lee … They made a jeans just for women, the Lady Lee Rider. 1960s – The first overseas Lee factory goes into production as baby boomers explode onto the clothing scene. Lee dies of a heart attack in Texas. Here, categorized by decades and featuring elements of business, leadership and style, is a history of the H.D. Lee Co. is woven into America’s western expansion and the world events of the 20th Century. We also occasionally accept products for research and reviewing purposes. Along with Levi's and Wrangler, Lee is part of the triumvirate of classic American denim. To fully appreciate this development, speak with a man standing in an Iowa cornfield in late December, his gloved hands desperately fumbling at his buttoned fly. These are the most accommodating Levi’s for curves thanks to that button fly, which gives more room through the hips and butt. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. 1989 – The jeans manufacturer spends about $2 million annually for rocks from the United States, Turkey, Greece and Mexico used in treating fabric. Contrary to what you might … There, the H.D. Rise: Mid to high rise (just below the belly button). Call it a trend, call it a responsible environmental choice, but vintage denim is a "thing" any way you cut it. The super high waist nips everything in, while a little extra room (and sometimes stretch) through the thigh and its tapered leg make these jeans curve-friendly. 1900-1909 – A devastating warehouse fire and the challenge of transporting goods over undeveloped land, some of it settled less than 50 years before, cannot keep Lee and his associates from becoming a prominent financial force across the Central Plains and burgeoning Midwest. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button). The Hair-on-Hide Lee patch is first attached to pants’ backs along the belt line. They’ve got a similar fit, but the zip fly holds everything in if you want to go more fitted, and the thigh is slightly slimmer. The death of founder H.D. Twin towers arise like a double-headed Phoenix in its place. Plus, the bright blue indigo and slight flare give off a nice ’70s cowgirl vibe. As Alice Wells and Jennifer Francis (co-founders of Kindred Black, a secret weapon source for vintage denim) tell us, "there is such variety right now — the beauty of vintage jeans is that they’re so versatile. 1930s – Continued growth is a precursor to the cursing heard throughout the Great Depression. 1940s – Increased apparel production and sales bolstered by post-war prosperity encourage the company to concentrate less on food and more on fashion. Custom designs for seamen and loggers also arrive as a precursor to customer-specific designs for people who need to impress while cruising a shopping mall or sliding behind the wheel of a sport utility vehicle. Fit: Slim through the hip and thigh with a straight leg or slight flare. Lee Company. Size up at least two sizes if you are going by the number on the waist band. Cut a straight line across the leg about two inches farther down the leg from your … Go for a snug fit, because these stretch out kind of fast. 1952 – Benjamin E. Kinney serves as president and C.A. Look for pairs from the ’80s and ’90s, and size up if you’re going by the number on the waist band. Corporate suitors begin ogling as the clothing company bursts at the seams. Its headquarters is currently in … (Wedgie jeans are styled after vintage for a reason.). 1974 – William McKenna leads Lee into the ’80s. The Tab with LEVI’S (also known as “Big E”) means the jeans are from before 1971. The looser hip can be a little more forgiving for curvier bodies, too (for even more room, Levi's 517s also fit this bill). Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, Denim Refinery, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. Put on the jeans. 1942 – Lee keeps rolling with Roland B. Caywood, president until his death. Staples is president during Lee’s acquisition by VF Corp., makers of Vanity Fair intimate apparel. Note: 501s come in all sorts of washes; look for cool touches like paint splatters, rips, or whisker fades. The Lee Co. once again prevails, opening a new plant in 1936 and later celebrating its 50th anniversary. In part, vintage jeans have never been so popular because there have never been so many options. 1886 – A keen mind and poor health induce Lee to sell half his interest in Central Oil Co. to John Rockefeller’s Standard Oil Co. Lee stays on as manager until poor health forces him out two years later. 1936 – The Lee organization forecasts its highest sales since 1930 and opens a Lee Riders plant in San Francisco to supply the cowboy and rodeo trade. Lee Co. has led the way in innovation and style. Leg: Slim fit with a tapered ankle on pairs from the ’80s; late ’70s pairs have a slight flare. 1949 – The developing women’s market evolves from factories worked by women during World War II. I found some at the salvation army. After the war, in an attempt to compete with the jeans makers Levi Strauss and Lee, they decided to develop a brand name they had acquired in 1943 when they bought the Casey Jones Company. Sales of notions, furnishings, stationery and school supplies follow. The spelling of the Levi's logo will date the jeans either before or after 1971.To asses more specific dates, you will … Fit: Usually a cinched waist with a loose, relaxed fit through the thigh and a tapered ankle. 1-16 of 517 results for "lee jeans" Skip to main search results Eligible for Free Shipping. Thanks to decades of good advertising, Calvin Klein jeans are burned in our collective mind as the sexy denim ideal. For many denim lovers, hunting for worn and vintage jeans and jackets is a favourite hobby. 1990 – A 200,000 square-foot distribution center opens in Mocksville, N.C., adding efficiency and speed to Lee’s customer service efforts. Fashion types are quick to gush over 501s, but 505s are even better. Original Lee Cowboy Jeans From The 1940’s. Lee produces a jean befitting the female form with the introduction of Lady Lee Riders. Free Shipping by Amazon. If that’s a look you can make sexy, more power to you. denim and had a rust-proof button fly. ", While the pool may be wide, shopping for vintage jeans isn’t as simple as picking your typical size off the thrift store rack (the size on the tag basically means nothing), and not every pair is created equal: Some of these jeans are going to make your butt look good, and some of these jeans are going to make your butt look really good. 1889 – Lee settles in Salina, Kan., and starts the H.D. 1959 – Lee opens its international division in New York City and receives the U.S. president’s “E” award for its extraordinary export efforts. A bunch of different brands have made the style, including Oshkosh (yes, for grown-ups) and Gap, but Carhartt is definitely the easiest the brand to find in thrift stores. Reynolds, a former Lee sales manager and founder of the Cowboy Hall of Fame and the Western Heritage Center, helps Lee lasso the western market as Lee Co. chairman. ... Lee … Look at the tag inside the jeans for the style number if the label is faded. Whether outfitting cowboys in the twilight of the Wild West, supplying an American military entrenched in war, or producing the fashion and durability contemporary culture demands, the H.D. 1913 – Lee’s tradition of product innovation swirls out of the dust enveloping Lee’s horse less carriage. Baggy, loose, low cut, boot cut, slim, skinny, super skinny. 1920 – The Lee Co.’s first consumer promotion introduces Buddy Lee, a ceramic figure first found loitering in storefront windows wearing Lee Overalls and a mischievous smile. 1981 – As jeans sales reach 502 million units industry wide, the five pocket Lee “Genuine Jeans” become the accepted dress standard across the country. Lee now can upgrade its U.S. concerns and enter joint ventures in Scotland, Belgium, Spain, Australia, Brazil and Hong Kong. Lee is an American brand of denim jeans, first produced in 1889 in Salina, Kansas.The company is owned by Kontoor Brands, a spin-off of VF Corporation's Jeans wear Division. Funny thing is, most of the CKs you"ll find at the vintage store are from the ’90s and fit like actual mom jeans: blouse-y thighs and tapered ankle. By 1965, teens would spend $3.5 billion on apparel. It also improves the appearance of Lee’s chauffeur, who had tired of maintaining his clothes as he maintained the car. 1939 -Lee celebrates 50 years with – we couldn’t make this up – a Golden Jubi-Lee celebrating the company’s stance as the largest manufacturer of work clothes in the United States. Lee Mercantile Co. solves workwear supply problems by taking matters into its own factory. You won't have much luck finding these at thrift stores. Save yourself the trouble in the dressing room if you have thicker thighs, butt, or a much slimmer waist than hip; these are better at creating curves than accommodating them. Mark a straight line across the leg. Denim becomes the material of choice, accounting for more than 77 percent of jeans sales in 1981. 1960s – The tempo of fashion changes faster than the beat of a Motown retrospective; Lee not only keeps pace, but also leads the way as teens begin digging denim. Note: If you go for a pair that’s your actual waist size, you can crop these above the ankle for Jesse Kamm or Rachel Comey vibes. It’s an original Lee Cowboys Jeans from the mid ’40’s.The first Lee Cowboys Jeans … You can also see what we’re up to by signing up here. Late 1960s – Lee opens plants in Texas, Virginia, Missouri, Kansas, Georgia and Louisiana. The “Cowboy” jacket, as it came to be known, was much closer in style to a Levi’s … Find a Good Knockoff Levi’s is the most significant denim company in the world; Lee's comes after that. 1946 – Color coordinated work shirts and pants are introduced. The Lee Union-All unites a jacket and dungarees to cover farm and factory workers from neck to ankles. Experiments using shredded car tires, bottle caps, golf balls, rope and wood lead to positive results using pumice (a type of lava rock). As if the new color weren’t enough, center creases and narrower legs make the Lee Westerner a high note in styling. Mark on the outer hem where you want the shorts to fall. Lee Flour Mills Co., Lee Hardware Co. and Kansas Ice and Storage. The presence of a care tag can also help you date your jeans… Rise: Super high (at or above the belly button). Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Jordache, Tictail, your local thrift shop. Lee Co., Inc. 1946 – Lee acquires Eloesser-Heynemann Co., the San Francisco-based workwear producer of “Can’t Bust Em” work clothes, to address market growth spurred by returning servicemen. And of the three, it straddles the middle between still-sorta-respected and sad-former … Costs are further clipped by the use of computer technology. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Tictail, your local thrift shop, curated vintage shops. 1982 – Robert Gregory runs Lee for a year, then is named president of VF Corp. 1983 – Lee’s softer, stronger Ultra Cord is introduced as “the Ultimate in Corduroy.” Other innovations include Dress Blues, which feature superior color retention; stretch jeans; and Denim Cable-stripes. 3 Jackets and 1 pair of jeans. 1928 – Founder H.D. Established in 1889, the company is headquartered in Merriam, Kansas, and is often referred to as the inventor of the jeans jackets. Whether your ’80s babysitter is still your style icon or you just really fell hard for Stranger Things, you’re going to look good in Jordache. Whether outfitting … It was therefore in 1947 that the first model of Wrangler Jeans Model 11MW (Mens Western) were made using 11oz. 1925 – The lighter weight, unsurpassed durability and twisted yarns of Lee Jelt Denim propel the Lee story. With the telltale "W" and tan leather logo stitched on the back pockets, Wranglers do wonders for the booty — especially if you don’t have one. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, curated vintage shops. Surprisingly, Lee didn’t begin by making clothing—or manufacturing anything at all for that matter. 1849-1899 – Henry David Lee is born Dec. 9, 1849, in Vermont. 1980s – The computer age and automated production hit home. and the jeans were $175. Levi's Jeans labels can help identify the general date the jeans were made. As Alice Wells from Kindred Black tells us, "I’ve had a pair since middle school that miraculously keep stretching and molding to my body as the years go by.". Innovation begins almost immediately with the production of Union-Alls, a unique, one-piece coverall originally created by sewing a coat and pants together. Department. 1862 – Lee settles in Galion, Ohio, saves $1,200 in three years as a hotel clerk, and parlays livery and real estate investments into the purchase of Central Oil Co. of Galion. In 1947 Blue Bell hired a renowned rodeo tailor, Ben Lichtenstein, or Rodeo Ben, to develop a line of jeans … The FIT of jeans is probably one of the fastest changing fashion trends. Lee Co. Inc. is acquired by VF Corp. in 1969. 1986 – The tandem of Richard Lamm, executive vice president and chief operating officer, and Executive Vice President Jim Huntington , team to lead Lee into its centennial as a company with 17 sewing plants, five laundries, nearly 10,000 employees and a daily production capacity of 200,000 jeans. 1915 – A plant producing Lee’s innovative one-piece Union-Alls crops up in Kansas City, Kan.; two more pants plants soon follow. A nice alternative to Wranglers, Lee jeans have a similar fit without feeling so Western. Note: The long inseam makes them tall-girl friendly; alternatively, you can crop them for the perfect kick flare. Leg, classic fit ( aka mom jeans ) shop ; Buy them new at Army/Navy.! Is born Dec. 9, 1849, in Vermont 50th anniversary Hair-on-Hide Lee patch first... 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